Perma-Chink Colors
It is especially important to seal upward facing checks in any location where they may accumulate water. If these checks are left unsealed, they become sites where rot may begin to take hold. If you have old checks where rot is a risk, be sure to apply Shell-Guard before sealing with Check Mate 2.
Check Mate 2 Available Sizes
Check Mate 2 comes in handy 11oz tubes that fit standard 11oz ratcheting guns or powered guns. For large restoration projects Check Mate 2 is available by the case, and we also offer a small project kit that contains two 11oz tubes and 50 feet of 3/8″ backer rod.
Product Information
Check Mate 2 is specifically formulated to meet the particular requirements for sealing checks that appear in logs and log siding. Checks and splits in logs present a different set of dynamics than those typically addressed by a caulk, and therefore need a specialized sealant like Check Mate 2.
Features
- Waterproof
- Remains Flexible to Allow For Log Movement
Application Temperature
40° to 90°F
Application Methods
Ratchet caulking gun
Surface Preparation
Clean and dry
Backing material
Free of mold and mildew
Shelf Life
1 Year
Frequency
As needed
Special Instructions
Apply to upper facing checks 1/4″ to 1″ wide
Apply to approximately 3/8″ thickness
Avoid application in direct sunlight
Drying Time
Dries to the touch in 1 hour
Cures in 2-3 days depending on temperature and humidity
When first applying Check Mate 2, the color may seem lighter than the color you are expecting. Don’t worry, Check Mate 2 will dry and cure darker than it looks when it comes out of the tube.
Check Mate 2 Color Wet vs. Dry
Sealing Checks In Logs & Log Siding
For cracks in your logs, called checks, we recommend sealing upward-facing checks that are wider than 1/4″ because they collect water, ultimately leading to rot. They also offer a home for bugs.
Perma-Chink Chinking and Sealant Calculator
What happens if I go less width than what the manufacturer recommends?
Not all logs on your home move at the same rate, some may move a lot and others barely anything. When they make the recommendation they figure out the most movement you would see out of two logs touching each other and recommend a joint size that will allow the stretch to happen without failure. Some people want the joint to be smaller due to cost or the look. If you took a 1.5" recommendation and went with 1" instead, you will notice a few more repairs over the years if you get two logs that really move. You are not likely to see failure everywhere if you were deep enough with the joint in the first place ( notice we are talking depth here...not the initial joint width question)
The smaller you make the width the more likely you will see failures or separation. In our experience we have seen good results if people use 2/3 of the recommendation...but we don't recommend pushing it further than that.
Not all logs on your home move at the same rate; some may move a lot and others barely at all. When they make the recommendation they figure out the most movement you would see out of two logs touching each other factoring in the size of the logs. They recommend a joint size that will allow the stretch to happen without failure. The sealants and chink are designed to strech 2.5x the joint size before failing. Big logs overall move more so require a bigger joint. If you short it too much there may not be enough material to handle the log movement.
Some people want the joint to be smaller due to cost or the look.
For Example: If you took a 1.5" recommendation and went with 1" instead, you will notice a few more repairs over the years if you get two logs that really move. You are not likely to see failure everywhere if you were deep enough with the joint in the first place ( notice we are talking depth here...not the initial joint width question) The smaller you make the width the more likely you will see failures or separation. In our experience we have seen good results if people use at least 2/3 of the recommended joint size...but we don't recommend pushing it further than that.
Joint Width
Most manufacturers recommend 15% of the log diameter for joint size after the first drying season and up to 20% if it's in the first drying season.
Example: 10" log diameter x 15% = 1.5" recommended joint size
Want to go less? You can, but learn more if that is a good decision for you.
Lineal Footage
Take each wall and multiply by the number of rows of sealant high.
Example 40' long wall x 9 rows high= 360 lf . Then add your lineal footage from each wall together.
For corners add 30% to your height measurement.
For gable ends, count your rows and estimate each for length, then add together.
Joint Depth
Log Sealants are designed to stretch as your logs move. They need an appropriate width as above, but even more important they require enough depth (material) so as not to fail.
Recommended Depth:
Joint Width 1/2" or less= 1/4" depth
Joint Width 5/8" or greater= 3/8" depth up to 1/2" Learn More about playing with depth
*Note: Quantities are based on the provided measurements. Actual product required can vary based on real life thickness used and contours of the logs. All calculations based on the use of backer rod
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