Perma-Chink Colors
Energy Seal has excellent adhesion and stretch. It is not affected by ultraviolet rays, is resistant to most chemicals, salt spray, mold and mildew, and has low thermal conductivity.
Most people call log sealants “caulk” but we try to refer to them as “sealants” to help differentiate high quality products from cheap caulks that can be bought at any hardware store. Unlike commonly used caulks which look shiny and artificial, Energy Seal is textured to match the visual characteristics of wood. It easily tools to a smooth, professional finish, virtually disappearing into the walls after it’s applied. It softens the lines on log walls and accepts the color of wood finishes. In fact, Energy Seal so closely matches your walls, most people can’t tell the seams are sealed.
Application can be done by the homeowner or a professional contractor. We stock a full line of application accessories or can refer a professional applicator in your area.
Energy Seal Available Sizes
Like our leading log sealant Perma-Chink, Energy Seal comes in multiple sizes to meet the needs of any project. Large projects will benefit from pails, paired with a follow plate and bulk loading gun (manual or powered).
Product Information
Energy Seal was created specifically to seal milled or scribed log homes, log siding homes and around joinery such as butt-joints, trim and corners. There is nothing on the market that can beat Energy Seal’s natural appearing colors, ease of application, coverage and adhesion.
Features
- Highly Elastic
- Eliminates Air and Water Infiltration
- Remains Flexible to Allow for Log Movement
- For Exterior and Interior
- Suitable for all Climates
- Very Low VOC Formula
- Lightly Textured Appearance
Perma-Chink Chinking and Sealant Calculator
What happens if I go less width than what the manufacturer recommends?
Not all logs on your home move at the same rate, some may move a lot and others barely anything. When they make the recommendation they figure out the most movement you would see out of two logs touching each other and recommend a joint size that will allow the stretch to happen without failure. Some people want the joint to be smaller due to cost or the look. If you took a 1.5" recommendation and went with 1" instead, you will notice a few more repairs over the years if you get two logs that really move. You are not likely to see failure everywhere if you were deep enough with the joint in the first place ( notice we are talking depth here...not the initial joint width question)
The smaller you make the width the more likely you will see failures or separation. In our experience we have seen good results if people use 2/3 of the recommendation...but we don't recommend pushing it further than that.
Not all logs on your home move at the same rate; some may move a lot and others barely at all. When they make the recommendation they figure out the most movement you would see out of two logs touching each other factoring in the size of the logs. They recommend a joint size that will allow the stretch to happen without failure. The sealants and chink are designed to strech 2.5x the joint size before failing. Big logs overall move more so require a bigger joint. If you short it too much there may not be enough material to handle the log movement.
Some people want the joint to be smaller due to cost or the look.
For Example: If you took a 1.5" recommendation and went with 1" instead, you will notice a few more repairs over the years if you get two logs that really move. You are not likely to see failure everywhere if you were deep enough with the joint in the first place ( notice we are talking depth here...not the initial joint width question) The smaller you make the width the more likely you will see failures or separation. In our experience we have seen good results if people use at least 2/3 of the recommended joint size...but we don't recommend pushing it further than that.
Joint Width
Most manufacturers recommend 15% of the log diameter for joint size after the first drying season and up to 20% if it's in the first drying season.
Example: 10" log diameter x 15% = 1.5" recommended joint size
Want to go less? You can, but learn more if that is a good decision for you.
Lineal Footage
Take each wall and multiply by the number of rows of sealant high.
Example 40' long wall x 9 rows high= 360 lf . Then add your lineal footage from each wall together.
For corners add 30% to your height measurement.
For gable ends, count your rows and estimate each for length, then add together.
Joint Depth
Log Sealants are designed to stretch as your logs move. They need an appropriate width as above, but even more important they require enough depth (material) so as not to fail.
Recommended Depth:
Joint Width 1/2" or less= 1/4" depth
Joint Width 5/8" or greater= 3/8" depth up to 1/2" Learn More about playing with depth
*Note: Quantities are based on the provided measurements. Actual product required can vary based on real life thickness used and contours of the logs. All calculations based on the use of backer rod
Perma-Chink Chinking
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Sealant Calculator & More Info
Energy Seal Textured Log Caulking
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Caulking Calculator & More Info
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