Perma-Chink Colors
Chink Paint Available Sizes
Chink-Paint can save time and money by eliminating the need to mask off the chinking before staining. Simply wait for the stain to dry and then apply a coat of Chink-Paint in whichever color you desire.
Product Information
Chink Paint can be used in several situations. Some log homes owners choose a new color, or some log homes have cosmetic chink joints that serve no purpose other than giving the home the appearance of a chink-style structure.
Features
- UV Stable
- Covers Existing Chink Stains From Wood Staining
- Stretches – Won’t Crack or Peel
- Suitable For All Climates
Chink Paint Application
When applying Chink Paint, the first step is to make sure the product is well mixed. Chink Paint, both Textured and Smooth, contain a blend of raw material ingredients that need to be uniformly dispersed to ensure proper color, adhesion and long term performance. Furthermore, Chink Paint Textured contains an aggregate to give it the similar textured appearance to Perma-Chink.
Chink Paint is best applied using a paint brush with about two to three inches of fairly stiff bristles. Keep a wet rag handy to wipe off any Chink Paint that may get on stained surfaces and clean-up with soap and water.
Application Temperature
40° to 90°F
Application Methods
Brush
Surface Preparation
Clean and dry
Shelf Life
3 Years
Frequency
As desired
Special Instructions
Apply one coat
Do not allow to freeze
Drying Time
30-60 minutes
Coverage
2″ Joint – 600 linear feet / gallon
3″ Joint – 400 linear feet / gallon
4″ Joint – 300 linear feet / gallon
Chink Paint Vs. Chinking
A number of log home manufacturers offer squared log homes with cosmetic chink joints. Although some owners of these style homes ignore these cosmetic joints and just stain over them, others like the look of a chink style home which may be the reason that they bought the home in the first place. The question is when should you use Perma-Chink in these cosmetic joints versus using Chink Paint?
Perma-Chink Chinking and Sealant Calculator
What happens if I go less width than what the manufacturer recommends?
Not all logs on your home move at the same rate, some may move a lot and others barely anything. When they make the recommendation they figure out the most movement you would see out of two logs touching each other and recommend a joint size that will allow the stretch to happen without failure. Some people want the joint to be smaller due to cost or the look. If you took a 1.5" recommendation and went with 1" instead, you will notice a few more repairs over the years if you get two logs that really move. You are not likely to see failure everywhere if you were deep enough with the joint in the first place ( notice we are talking depth here...not the initial joint width question)
The smaller you make the width the more likely you will see failures or separation. In our experience we have seen good results if people use 2/3 of the recommendation...but we don't recommend pushing it further than that.
Not all logs on your home move at the same rate; some may move a lot and others barely at all. When they make the recommendation they figure out the most movement you would see out of two logs touching each other factoring in the size of the logs. They recommend a joint size that will allow the stretch to happen without failure. The sealants and chink are designed to strech 2.5x the joint size before failing. Big logs overall move more so require a bigger joint. If you short it too much there may not be enough material to handle the log movement.
Some people want the joint to be smaller due to cost or the look.
For Example: If you took a 1.5" recommendation and went with 1" instead, you will notice a few more repairs over the years if you get two logs that really move. You are not likely to see failure everywhere if you were deep enough with the joint in the first place ( notice we are talking depth here...not the initial joint width question) The smaller you make the width the more likely you will see failures or separation. In our experience we have seen good results if people use at least 2/3 of the recommended joint size...but we don't recommend pushing it further than that.
Joint Width
Most manufacturers recommend 15% of the log diameter for joint size after the first drying season and up to 20% if it's in the first drying season.
Example: 10" log diameter x 15% = 1.5" recommended joint size
Want to go less? You can, but learn more if that is a good decision for you.
Lineal Footage
Take each wall and multiply by the number of rows of sealant high.
Example 40' long wall x 9 rows high= 360 lf . Then add your lineal footage from each wall together.
For corners add 30% to your height measurement.
For gable ends, count your rows and estimate each for length, then add together.
Joint Depth
Log Sealants are designed to stretch as your logs move. They need an appropriate width as above, but even more important they require enough depth (material) so as not to fail.
Recommended Depth:
Joint Width 1/2" or less= 1/4" depth
Joint Width 5/8" or greater= 3/8" depth up to 1/2" Learn More about playing with depth
*Note: Quantities are based on the provided measurements. Actual product required can vary based on real life thickness used and contours of the logs. All calculations based on the use of backer rod
Perma-Chink Chinking
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